Today is memorial day. Some things will be as they always are – there will be 2 minutes of silence at 8pm when even the cars will stop around the country. There will be a broadcast across Dutch TV of a ceremony on TV. There will be a poem read by a student who wrote it to commemorate those who died in war. Flags are at half mast, and flowers are laid at monuments – including virtual monuments.
Some things will be different. There will be no crowds at any of the events, we are asked to stay home and commemorate with two minutes silence.
One of the local news sites has published images from the Hague during the war from the City Archives. The one of a tank at Scheveningen harbour struck me.
This year I’m thinking about a group of 112 people belong to Gypsy, Sinta or Roma groups. They are commemorated in a monument near here, I think it’s the first monument I’ve seen that is specifically dedicated to this group. There was a national raid on 16 May 1944 and families were were collected by Dutch police on the orders of Berlin and deported to Auschwitz-Birkenau in 1944. Only thirty survived.
I went for a short bike ride this evening to capture some of the memorials, normally there would be people in all these places, the only people I saw were delivery guys on bikes and, in the Binnenhof, KoninklijkeMarechaussee and a lone trumpeter.
One of the things I’ve really missed during lockdown is the opportunity to visit museums. Museums were closed from 12 March to 6 May, open with restrictions over summer and have been closed again since 3 November. So when Museumkaart offered the opportunity to visit a museum following a negative sneltest for Corona I took the opportunity. I chose to visit Prinsenhof Museum in Delft, It’s relatively close to me and I’d never been there before. I booked a ticket to museum and a test. Last Friday I got the first chance to visit a museum in half a year. I was excited about it, and the lovely lady who gave me instructions about the route through the exhibits told me she was excited to be working and seeing people again. We all miss seeing people.
I’d read about Jingdezhen in Edmund de Waal’s book “The White Road“, so I was eager to learn more. The exhibition applies a high level view of China’s turbulent history and shows the impact on Jingdezhen’s porcelain industry.
Take a look through these images, take a guess at which is the oldest, and which is the newest. (Answer below).
Clockwise from top left:
Eggshell porcelain bowl (ca1973)
Large vase with 100 treasures in relief (ca1890)
Hexagonal lantern, with swastika and coin motifs (1850 – 1900)
Teacup with “ricegrain” technique (2020)
Plate decorated with Van Alderwerelt coat of arms (ca 1760)
Were you right? I was surprised when I found out how “new” the eggshell porcelain bowl is.
Jingdezhen has survived a thousand years because it could adapt. It kept the secret of porcelain production until 1700, maintaining their mastery of a craft against the poor imitators of Europe. The first porcelain produced was simple shapes and simple designs, with etchings into the clay as decoration, like this small bowl. (Disclaimer, this is from the V&A because my photos from the Prinsenhof exhibition were terrible.)
As the Chinese traded along the Silk Road they created designs that would suit their clients, large flat dishes decorated with flowers suited homes in the Middle East and India, wine jugs with sytlised tulips destined for Persia, items for the Japanese tea ceremony, and eventually family coats of arms for Europe.
When Chinese exports began to dip in 1644 due to civil war – the kilns of Jingdezhen were destroyed – Delft potters began decorating their earthenware goods in imitation of the Chinese style, it was the beginning of “Delft Blue”.
When the civil war ended the kilns were rebuilt the Chinese repaid the compliment by innovating on glazes based on European enamelled glass. Such as this vase from 1916. This is the porcelain of modern times, although the motifs often draw on traditional themes.
The most exciting example in the exhibition was a large bowl with fish swimming in the interior and scenes from the workshop in Jingdezhen around the outside showing all the artisans at work.
Museums are still closed due to corona, this was an opportunity offered via the Museumkaart. However this exhibition is scheduled to last until 9 January 2022, surely we’ll be able to visit by then? It’s worth visiting, I may even go back.
The museum’s site is mostly in Dutch but they do provide basic visitor info in English, and for the exhibition itself there was a handy guide book with information on each item. Getting there was easy – there’s a tram from The Hague that stops right outside the Prinsenhof gates.
images all mine, except the Song Bowl which is from the V&A site.
Some of the restrictions we’re living under just got relaxed.
Curfew has ended
It has been illegal to leave our homes between 9pm and 4.30am (later adjusted to 10pm to 4.30 am). Realistically this has had zero impact on my life since (a) it’s cold and (b) nothing is open. But psychologically I associate curfew with war, so I felt shocked when it was announced.
Shops can open
Essential shops have always been open, but non-essential shops were closed before Christmas and opened again just recently but only for shopping by appointment. I have used that appointment system about 3 times.
Cafes and restaurants can serve customers on a terrace
This is the one I have been waiting for, I want to be able to sit at a cafe, and be served food on a plate and coffee in a cup. Lots of my favourite places have been very creative with their takeaway options and I love them for it, but it’s not the same experience.
We won’t be quite as merry as the garden party above – we still have to maintain social distance, no more than two households at table, everyone must have an assigned seat, and the opening hours are limited to 12 – 6pm.
Still I have booked a table for lunch on Friday and I know I will enjoy it.
For the first time since I was fifteen my passport has expired, given that there’s no travel on the horizon it didn’t seem urgent, but now that things are improving it’s time to sort this out. That began with a trip to a local photographer. I wore a mask except for about a minute while he took the photo. Then he showed me the photo for my approval…
Customer (i.e. me)
*looks at image on screen* Oh, I look so tired
Well, after a 20 hour flight you will look very tired, so you’ll match.
One of my favourite places to visit in my new home city is the Haagse Bos, and the forest is part of the story of how Holland became known as Holland.
Once upon a time forests spread from Hoek van Holland, where the Maas river meets the North Sea, across South Holland, across North Holland to Alkmaar. The forest was then known as “Die Hout”, the woods. “Hout” is still used in Dutch today but more often to refer to a wooden product than a mass of trees. Die Hout eventually became Houtland, or Woodlands, and that morphed into “Holland”. In English Holland is often used for the whole country, but in the Netherlands it’s used to refer to the two provinces that are roughly where “Die Hout” once stood: Zuid Holland, which includes the Hague, and Noord Holland, which includes Amsterdam.
There are two surviving pieces of this once great forest, Haarlemmer Hout, and Haagse Bos.The Haagse Bos is relatively close to my house and although it has a highway through the middle of it, a playground in the middle, and a royal home at one end, it retains a sense of deep forest. I go there to breathe the fresh green air in any season.
This simple statue could be a tulip, or a vase, but it commemorates something more significant, the first hot air balloon flight in the Netherlands. The flight was made in 1785 by Jean-Pierre Blanchard, and it departed from the gardens behind the Noordeinde Palace, now known as the “Paleistuin” or Palace gardens.
That flight did not end well. The balloon was made of varnished silk which could easily be punctured and when the balloon landed 25 kilometers away in Zevenhuizen Blanchard was attacked by farmers with pitchforks. It’s a comical scene to our modern eyes, but no-one in the Netherlands had ever seen a man arrive by any form of flight before, indeed the first manned balloon flight was only two years earlier so few people in the world had ever seen it, no wonder the farmers were afraid.
There is a charming image of preparations for the first flight held in the Rijskmuseum archive, showing the preparation – 24 barrels of gas being released to lift the balloon, four men holding tethers while it inflates, and various citizens strolling past the extraordinary sight. The statue is of a similar shape, but clearly stylised for the period it was created.
Timeline of Balloon Flight
1783 First manned balloon flight, Montgolfier brothers, France
1784 Jean-Pierre Blanchard makes his first balloon flight, France
1785, January Jean-Pierre Blanchard and John Jeffries, an American, cross the English Channel in a balloon
1785, July Jean-Pierre Blanchard makes the first manned balloon flight in the Netherlands
1793 Blanchard makes the first manned balloon flight in the Americas, from Philadelphia to New Jersey.
1794 First military use of a manned balloon flight at the battle of Fleurus
1807 Blanchard makes another flight in the Hague, this time from Huis ten Bosch
1808 Blanchard has a heart-attack while in a balloon above the Hague, and falls from the balloon. He dies of injuries from the fall about a year later.
1960 Commemorative statue unveiled in the Palace Garden.
Museum Voorlinden is a new museum, by Dutch standards, having opened in 2016. It’s a a wonderful modern pavilion purpose built as a home for art, it’s surrounded by a garden designed to have flowers in three seasons and be interesting in all four seasons. The collection is modern and has at its base the private collection of Mr. van Caldenborgh.
The exhibition space is light an airy, with a specifically designed ceiling so that the gallery space is bathed in light. There were three exhibitions on view. The first is called “Less is More“, a sort of play on art meeting minimalism. Some of the pieces focused on impermanence, some on humans vs their environment and some explored the materials such as Trans-for-men (my favourite piece in the exhibition). This exhibition is on until January 2020 – so you have time!
The second exhibition I saw was a joy, an exploration of fabric and architecture. Do Ho Suh, a Korean artist, is fascinated with space and each piece is infused with colour.
And finally, the exhibition I was most curious to see, I’ve wanted to see Yayoi Kusama’s work for ages. Her power with colour and shape, her ability to visualise in any medium is so impressive. She’s been copied and underestimated forever, and it’s relatively recently – thanks Instagram! – that’s she’s started to have the sort of universal recognition her genius deserves. I was not less impressed for having seen so many images of her work.
I’ve wanted to see Yayoi Kusama’s work for years, so when I saw there was an exhibition on at Museum Voorlinden i rushed off to see it, I was a bit slow noticing so ended up going in the last week. The two other exhibitions I saw are still on, but hurry for Do Ho Suh, it ends on until 29 September.
How To Visit
Address Voorlinden museum & gardens Buurtweg 90 2244 AG Wassenaar The Netherlands
Getting There isn’t easy! I cycled from the centre of the Hague which took about 25 minutes, the only public transport option is bus 43 or 44, to the Wittenburgerweg Wassenaar stop, but there’s a 20 minute walk from there to the museum.
Ticket Prices Adults € 17.50 13-18 year-olds € 8.50 under 12 free NOTE: Museumjaarkaart is not valid
The Mauritshuis is an emblem of the Hague, and this model of the building is made of sugar, symbolising the source of Johan Maurits’ wealth. He was the Governor-General of the colony Dutch Brazil, and involved in the trans-Atlantic slave trade. In his lifetime he was so famous for his wealth that one nickname for the Mauritshuis was “The Sugar House”. The current exhibition Shifting Image – In search of Johan Maurits examines how we might view Maurits today, and how our views of him might have changed.
The paintings in the exhibition each present commentary from different perspectives.
It’s a great way of giving a range of modern views to Dutch history, and I admit I didn’t realise there had been an Afro-Dutch community in Amsterdam during Rembrandt’s lifetime.
The museum has created this exhibition as part of ongoing research, and includes an invitation for participation. It’s the first time I’ve seen an exhibition dedicated to examining the Dutch role in slavery in a major museum here, often mentions of slavery are obfuscated with passive language. It’s necessary.
The exhibition is on until 7 July, and includes a range of extra activities. It’s well worth a visit. Book now!
It’s really weird to read a book that tightly references the area you live in, and “The Cut Out Girl” begins with a walk around my new neighbourhood. This is where Lien, the author’s Aunt, lived before she was smuggled away to safety in Dordrecht. Lien is Jewish, and under the Nazi occupation her life was in danger, so her parents sent her into safety where she posed as a cousin from bombed-out Rotterdam. She never saw her parents again.
There are a lot of books about Jewish people in hiding, most famously of course Anne Frank, but there’s an important aspect to this book. Lien’s story is told simply and documented with photos, personal letters and trips to the nation’s archives. What makes it different as that Van Es, Lien’s nephew, looks at the dark side of the occupation. There were Dutch collaborators working with the occupiers to find Jewish people to deport, and there was a bounty for citizens to inform on Jews in hiding – remember that the winter of 1944-45 was the Hunger Winter, a real famine with a massive shortage of food so hiding extra people got harder, and there must have been more than one starving family who betrayed their Jewish neighbours for that bounty.
There were thousands of Dutch people who took part in measures to rescue Jewish people – from replacing the civil registers so that Jewish people were not identified (before WWII the civil register included religion), to hiding children, and moving Jews to safety. All of that is true and gets celebrated. But this darker side is usually ignored. Van Es has researched and documented some of the darker side, leading to some tough conversations among Dutch people.
I walked around the area where Lien lived with her parents as a child, ending on Rabbijn Maarsenplein. This square is tucked in behind the Nieuwe Kerk and surrounded by various Asian restaurants. But when Lien left The Hague this is where the only school for Jewish children was. There are two monuments on the square that point to its history, the Jewish memorial in the background of the photo above, and the Jewish Children monument (Joods Kindermonument ). The children’s names on the bars commemorate 400 children who attended the school on this square during the German occupation and did not survive. From the Hague 16,000 of the city’s 18,000 Jews were killed during the second world war including Rabbi Isaac Maarsen for whom this square was named, his wife and three daughters.
It’s an interesting book and a worthwhile read because of this honest perspective.
I had free time this afternoon so I cycled up to Clingendael, to see the Japanese Garden. It’s full of vibrant colour from the azaleas, rhododendrons and maple trees. There are narrow meandering paths through moss covered grounds around a pool, the reflections make for great views. There’s also a small pavilion to take a rest at the end of the pond, and a small buddha statue in a tiny hut.
It’s the oldest Japanese style garden in the Netherlands and many of the stone sculptures throughout the garden were collected by Baroness Marguérite van Brienen, who sourced them in her trips to Japan. It was her garden and it’s retained its original design.
There’s a trick to visiting – the garden is only open for a few weeks a year, for this year it’s